NASIR MAZHAR SPRING/SUMMER 2015 LONDON FASHION WEEK

“A bit sexy, a bit madam, a bit sporty, a bit sci-fi.” Nasir Mazhar’s own description of his womenswear for Spring 2015 was pretty definitive. Earth women and matriarchs were his inspirations, but he spun those notions from here to eternity—or maternity: There was a definite emphasis on fertility.

Another starting point might have been dissection—clothes taken apart and reconstructed in a sensual, skeletal form, midriffs and thighs bared. The chiffon bell-bottoms suspended from a garter belt were, Mazhar said, “ABBA meets Cher.” But there were cloaks and holsters and metal coronets that suggested militant queens of outer space as much as earth mothers. Mazhar has no fear of a head-scratching cross-reference—no other menswear designer has name-checked Henry VIII—so here he seemed to be defining a new tribe: aliens crossbreeding with dance hall girls, with some ragamuffin in the mix. And cleverly, every single thing was clearly signposted so our extraterrestrial visitors wouldn’t for one minute doubt they weren’t on planet Mazhar.

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