J JS LEE AW15’16 READY-TO-WEAR LONDON FASHION WEEK

JACKIE LEE was inspired by her childhood and in particular the memory of her mother hand-stitching garments (an ode to which was sweetly depicted by an illustration on the invitation) for her collection today.

“She would make clothes for us and there are pictures of me with messy hair and dirty clothes from playing outside,” the designer told us before the show. “Those pictures and memories were the starting point – and inspiration for the sportier details.”

In fact, this collection had quite a few new details to note from the Central Saint Martins-trained designer who is known for her no-fuss and more masculine approach to clothes. There was quilting and fuzz (a fun childhood nod no doubt) and there was a good dose of sexiness too – those gently rippling wide pleats fronting dresses or comprising collars for a start, and sinuous silhouettes for knits and lithe long dresses, one of which boasted a striking, shocking pink line down its back.

“I’d like to describe this woman as a bit different and on the eccentric side. She has tomboyish characteristics but as a woman she has a feminine sensitivity, which she brings to her work,” summed up Lee.

Still working within her repertoire of restraint, she showed she has more sides to her than just that – and can do sass as well as minimal.