AGANOVICH SS16 RTW PARIS FASHION WEEK

This assortment was an ode to Tiresias, a bird-communicating Greek soothsayer who blabbed divine secrets and techniques and was punished by being blinded then become a lady—as whom she was each praised as a priestess and pilloried as a prostitute (relying on who you learn)—earlier than ultimately gender-reverting. Which is definitely type of now.

The garments themselves appeared extra literal articulations of the 18th century (maybe edging the cusp of the 19th) by way of type: There have been full-bodied frock coats with jauntily pointed tales, corsetry, an inclination towards ruffle-free but jabot-like fullness on the neck, and a way of tailoring pared again and made primitive. As an Aganovich virgin, to those eyes there additionally appeared a tender backdrop of Ackermann, Watanabe, and Westwood right here: neither as debt nor derivation, simply context.

The gathering was an ongoing argument between the tie (masculine trope) and the colour pink (female trope). Each tropes have been warped, abused, remixed, and blended. Batik-dyed linen was the outer layer in opposition to folded-back flashes of silk organza animal print, an inversion of hierarchy that noticed the rougher material promoted to entrance of home with the snazzier pushed to the fringes. There have been moments when the fumes pumping forth from the Viper smoke machine grew to become slightly too thick to see all of the orchid undulations on provide or to understand the twists within the muted monochrome brocades. But there was readability sufficient to understand this tightly packed meditation on wearable tumult.

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