Brandon Sun wants to be the go-to brand for the next generation of fur collectors. His sell is that his pieces have a harder edge than those of the designers who came before him. For Fall he looked to the layered, black-on-black paintings of the artist Pierre Soulages to inform the collection’s textures and palette. “This is my favorite collection I’ve ever done,” Sun said at a preview.

His buyers might agree with that sentiment. The focal point of the show, appropriately, was the fur coats. There was a black-leather quilted version with the softest and fluffiest shearling collar, a patchworked style that was worn like a dress—and featured a wild mix of Blackglama mink, swakara, calfskin, and jaguar—along with a belted black-leather parka, its split hood lined in navy shearling and trimmed with magenta fox fur.

These were statement pieces, to be sure, but they were often worn over more somber black turtlenecks. Sun worked with stylist Charles Varenne this season, and the partnership was successful. Despite all the different textures and ideas at play, the models on the runway looked in control.

Beyond the fur, Sun offered some compelling high-day looks for his trunk-show crowd. The double-faced cashmere coat with raw edges, a metallic-floral sheath, and a black woven leather dress will each find a customer. ​

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