THE Calvin Klein brand went stratospheric with the ad campaign for its jeans “Nothing comes between me and my Calvins” back in 1980. What a different route it has taken now under the direction of Francisco Costa. Costa is probably the most minimalist American (well, South American) designer in the States, chanelling his creativity into how to use fabrics rather than showing clothes that are easy to wear.
Today’s show was a beautiful example of this, his singular vision, Opening with a self-described “compact technical sleeveless dress and engineered viscose fluted skirt”, his collection focused on A-line shapes whether flared culottes, tunics or dresses belted under the bust in an array of navy and ivory.
The simple palette was worked out in metallic – weaves and mesh breaking out into only a few silvery mesh moments. Long tunics were worn over transparent skirts cut away deep under the arm and at the back.