This is Prabal Gurung’s ninth season leading ICB, and his focus remains on sporty separates for the city girl. “We’re constantly building,” Gurung said backstage before the show, adding that this season the look has loosened; “It’s more relaxed, with more color.”
Gurung explored the idea of movement through fringe. On a pale blue tweed dress, for instance, it was applied to look as if it was dripping off the fabric. Swingy and swoosh-y and almost graphic in the way it was placed on each piece, the fringe worked best in a combination of melon, teal, and white, hanging off the front of a black miniskirt. That idea of oozing paint continued with a “melting” floral print, which was rendered on the front of a white heavy silk dress and a melon-colored, side-slit blazer.
Gurung also played with chambray, which might’ve felt too provincial if it weren’t for the patches of cornflower blue mesh worked into several of the pieces. (A double-layer skirt made to look like the tails of a shirt worked particularly well.) It added that sporty element that Gurung is typically after. A hand-drawn windowpane check served as a sort of grounding element, and while it worked on a gray wool dress that stood away from the body, it felt a little “been there, done that” on a white jumpsuit. This collection wasn’t as cohesive as Gurung’s past ICB efforts, but within the lineup there were stronger pieces. And Gurung promised that there is “more to come.”