“This is actually the most personal collection I’ve done because it was all about Colombia, my home,” Juan Carlos Obando said after his Spring show on the last day of NYFW. This season’s personal inspiration gave the designer an emboldened sense of confidence. Instead of focusing on his signature red-carpet gowns and bold color combinations, JCO opened his latest lineup with comparatively casual separates, which came in a range of refreshing neutrals that evoked the salt mines and deserts of the country’s La Guajira region. Working with a beautiful, ivory waxed silk, he paired ruffled halter tops with fluid midi skirts, and elevated muscle tees with cropped trousers featuring a comfortable elastic waistband and decorative streamers. From there, Obando transitioned into a handful of sensual, skin-toned kimonos that had boudoir appeal layered over tonal bikini tops.
About halfway through, Obando began reintroducing his familiar vibrant hues. Dressy biker jackets and languid, sleeveless robes in soft lavender and pastel pink, respectively, gave way to punchy primary-colored numbers, as well as a gorgeous, bias-cut crepe gown in the deepest shade of merlot, which was topped with a matching menswear-ish vest. Things ended on an energetic note with a group of explosive, animal-printed pieces, including updated track pants and floor-sweeping maxi skirts. “The women I see out at night in Colombia have always influenced my aesthetic. They’re a part of me, so I didn’t have to do any research to know these girls would combine cheetah with royal blue,” said Obando. The exotic finale series proved that Obando hasn’t completely changed his spots. Still, it was those standout lighter looks that made the most impact here.