Junichi Abe launched Kolor greater than a decade in the past as a males’s line, one aimed toward a sure sort of trendy man, the sort for whom a sweatshirt isn’t only a sweatshirt, and whose sneaker choice is just not essentially a mirrored image of his athleticism. Abe’s comparatively fledgling ladies’s assortment, now in its second official season, has a markedly comparable aesthetic in thoughts: army touches on parkas and vest pockets, narrow-cut cotton trousers topped with netted tulle, and naturally, sweatshirts, although right here they boast jersey backs or pleated tulle trimmings, together with the occasional frilled, excessive collar—Victoriana meets Champion. Abe develops all of his textiles himself, and they’re distinctive to the home, so what would possibly really feel de rigeur—hammered silver and gold lace, metallic-stamped organza—upon shut inspection is subtly spectacular, the lace right here pleated, miraculously, to point out its shiny underside. Layered oversize polka-dot T-shirts have been worn unfastened off the physique and over houndstooth printed shorts, an exploration of what a model consultant (Abe was not current on the presentation) referred to as “the place good style meets unhealthy style.” Ballooning skirts seemed to be product of parachutes, if parachutes have been additionally fabricated from tutus. Abe has by no means been afraid of a bit of coloration, and daring stripes reigned supreme, with flashes of fluorescent tones put to good use on trims, like that of a standout bomber jacket, slim and olive and simply the kind of layering piece any particular person wants of their wardrobe for an unpredictable spring.

Sneakers, a brand new enterprise for the designer, got here in three types: a thick, ridge-soled kitten-heel pump, a platform brogue, and a platform sandal impressed by one from the lads’s assortment, the highest rendered in richly earth-toned suede. The goal of this assortment, an aide defined, is in line with a lot of this season: to not costume “some not possible lady,” however quite, actual ladies, particularly, “the Kolor Man’s girlfriend.” Not less than they’re in good firm.

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