Marjan Pejoski’s Spring ’15 womenswear collection for KTZ began where his menswear outing left off. He was inspired by ancient Greece and neoclassicism, which resulted in a series of sporty-meets-saucy opening black-and-white looks covered in giant cabochons. When it came to his embellished dresses, the fit was great. And a little black bathing suit (also covered in Pejoski’s motif of choice) was topped with a wonderful, voluminous mesh jacket. The models’ hats—black cones with sculptural details—as well as sheer black striped socks, were cool accents.
The collection blended eccentric sexed-up clubwear with streetwise basics, like a printed black mesh KTZ sports jersey, or a fancy zip-up sweatshirt. A whole series of shiny, exaggerated, mock-croc outfits inspired by old armor Pejoski found at the British Museum were pure fantasy, as were the designer’s Grecian superhero getups, which involved capes, breastplates, and beaded stockings. These truly outré ensembles are what Pejoski’s audience lives for. In addition to editors, KTZ’s 9 p.m. show was populated by the brand’s die-hard devotees—club kids young and old. Men and women in electric-hued chapeaus, seven-inch platforms, and Leigh Bowery-esque makeup were wrapped around the BFC’s Courtyard Show Space jonesing to be permitted entry. And these individuals—London’s fearless night crawlers, the characters who’ve inspired so many of the city’s most successful talents, old and new—are the ones who are going to make this collection a hit.
“I wanted to bring the ancient into modernity,” offered Pejoski backstage. With his mashup of streetwear, elegance, and unharnessed imagination, he did just that. But he also transported his audience to another place and time—one that never existed before. Were his clothes out-there? Absolutely. But isn’t that kind of well-thought-out theater what fashion shows are (or should be) all about?