Ten years ago, when Danger Mouse released The Grey Album, the idea that you could make listenable music by mashing up the Beatles and Jay Z seemed patently absurd. Then you heard the record. The latest Maiyet collection proved a similarly synchronous mash-up of seemingly unreconcilable references. On the one hand, Emilie Flöge, muse to Gustav Klimt. On the other, Malik Sidibé, famous for his Bamako portraits of the 1960s. What the two references share is a density of pattern, a quality that Maiyet designer Kristy Caylor pursued via appealing floral prints and, more compellingly, through the collection’s variety of texture. Diamond-patterned cotton lace and gorgeous fringed tweeds got at the theme, but what really drove it home was the label’s expanded range of knits, which included everything from fine-gauge ribs to cozy, fisherman-weight sweaters with a pebbled effect. There were slicker textures, too, of leather and of velvet; the designer’s boot-leg trousers in those materials had a glam-ness redolent of Tom Ford’s breakthrough mid-’90s collections at Gucci. Indeed, Caylor was on a roll with her pants: Women are going snap up her buttoned, culotte-esque cropped trousers—one of her key silhouettes. The other key shape here was the sheath, elaborated in short form, as tunics, and attenuated, as long, lean sweaterdresses. As a general matter, the shapes were very direct, a welcome development. The vibe was bohemian, but a certain no-nonsense-ness pervaded and gave the collection as a whole an urbane edge.

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