MAKE no mistake about it, Missoni is a house that thrives on summer; its ideals are those that are best served somewhere along the blues and turquoise of the Mediterranean, during a long, lazy delicious lunch, under a perfectly blue sky surrounded by friends and family – always, there are friends and family. That’s the Missoni life. It was rather fitting that Missoni’s collection was titled Catch the Wind – it did just that. There was an airy lightness to proceedings this afternoon that felt fresh and carefree.
Those signature zig-zag intarsias were worked into strappy maxi dresses and seemed to float away from the body, bouncing with every step. Colours centred around chalky pastels and morphed into pale rainbow-coloured ombres. Oversized men’s shirts too, seemed to drift away and fell in languid cool shapes mirroring the volume of wide pants.
Of course there were knits too – what’s a Missoni collection without a handful of those? – they were lightweight or featured open work all the better for letting the air in. Graphic motifs on hammered silk recalled the energy of Matisse cut outs (the blockbuster exhibition is having a moment here – another Italian, Sergio Rossi cited it for this season’s shoe collection). This was a collection imbued with a feeling of exotica, extending even to headscarves fashioned into turbans.