Moschino – Pre Spring/Summer 2016 Ready-To-Wear
Jeremy Scott is a one-man news-making machine these days. It was recently announced that Aeffe, the parent company of Moschino, is upping its investment in Scott’s namesake brand. The designer is the subject of a feature-length documentary set to debut in September. His Moschino menswear collection will be the star of the show at Pitti Uomo next week, Katy Perry is the model in the new women’s campaign, and the brand as a whole is getting a spiffy new flagship store in Soho. The boutique, in particular, seems to have been weighing the most heavily on Scott’s mind of late, to judge by his latest Moschino womenswear collection. Perhaps “weigh” is the wrong turn of phrase: Scott evinced his typical frothy tongue-in-cheekness as he took on the motifs of the sales floor, everything from shopping bags and hang tags to credit cards and receipts. There’s an argument to be made, considering Scott’s instantly iconic “Sale!” tag dress, that he was commenting, this season, on the ways women commodify themselves, using branded clothes as a means to package their personal “product.” You could likewise argue that Scott’s spilled perfume prints had something to say about hyper-consumption. Best to leave those notions to the critical theorists, though, and focus on Scott’s main train of thought here, which was a meta take on the spectacle of selling stuff. That much was obvious in the looks that riffed on the signifiers of modern commerce, but Scott also pursued the idea, more subtly, with his rather pretty prints of illustrations he made of the scene at his first Moschino fashion show, and in looks that remixed some of his signatures into blurs of chain, quilted leather, brightly colored tweed. There were also some relatively mundane looks, like a slender black dress with pink bows at the shoulder, or a shorts suit of pink-and-black tweed, that were straightforwardly meant to, you know, sell. This collection had commerce on the brain in more ways than one.