NICHOLAS K AUTUMN/WINTER 2015-16 READY-TO-WEAR NEW YORK
The front row at Nicholas K always includes at least a few friends who embody the urban-nomad look designers Nicholas and Christopher Kunz nail season after season. The crowd wears it well, to be sure. But how many draped, asymmetrical hoodies can one really own?
For Fall, the brother-and-sister designers moved their aesthetic beyond their beloved drop-crotch pants. After watching 1920’s The Cabinet of Dr. Caligari, Nicholas said, she was captivated by the silent horror film’s “distorted, abstracted set. It still looks modern even now.” From there, she incorporated a “really dark, Gothic element” into the collection, thinking about the Victorian era and steampunk. There were floor-length gowns in dip-dyed silk georgette, opera-length leather gloves, and elongated wide-leg trousers worn with elegant scarf tops.
Yes, there was something more refined than usual going on here, from the fur-trimmed mullet sweater to the calf-length duvet coat trimmed in shearling. Even the more expected pieces felt elevated. For instance, cargo pockets on a zip-up sweater were made of fur, and the shearling collar of a hip-length leather aviator jacket was oversized for a luxe effect. While the old favorites were still in play—such as loose knit bottoms scrunched up the knee and cowl-neck tops, all endlessly layered—now there’s something else to talk about.