Tadashi Shoji doesn’t start with complex concepts, instead preferring fairly concrete ideas. Resort: mermaids. For Spring: Venice’s Ca’ d’Oro. This season: airplanes. Bam. And indeed, Shoji’s Pre-Fall debut was a straightforward enough interpretation of some of the elements of flight mechanics. In dresses, neoprene and leatherette were laser-cut into a frothy nothingness that, on closer inspection, was a pattern riffing on plane gears and propellers. It was a pretty proposition in A-line dresses, but when used in eveningwear, it didn’t quite transcend its fabrication; despite neoprene’s ubiquity in the twenty-teens, it’s a tall order to make it feel truly luxe. Elsewhere, gowns came decked out in pearlescent sequins, like rows of rivets. Ribbed and zigzagging knits had plenty of potential: Merely suggesting motion, they proved a less heavy-handed path to Shoji’s chosen theme.

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