TRUSSARDI AUTUMN/WINTER 2015-16 READY-TO-WEAR milan fashion week


Gaia Trussardi talks a good game. “I really felt the need to go to essentialism and purity,” she said backstage before her show today. “Let’s call it neo-minimalism, because of this cultural too-much that I am breathing at the moment. Too much information, too much stimulation.” Fine hypothesis, nicely delivered. Yet to cut through the static of overstimulation like detergent cuts through grease, her clothes needed to be as surgically sharp as her message. And they were not.

This was, though, a collection that spoke to the essentials of Trussardi. Vaguely militaristic greatcoats and skirtsuits were cut in a glove-making leather so liquid and thin that it moved with the ease of fabric. This is an indelicate observation, but one pair of leather pants was so princess-and-the-pea delicate that it bore a VPL imprint. Maybe on purpose: Underwear was an out-and-out emphasis here. Slipdresses in leather (look 24) and Lurex-coated leather (look 36) collaged from rectangular patches were an argument between hard and soft worth having for the sake of it. The cut of those trousers was ’80s-touched, high of waist and broad of beam; so was the patchwork, and panels on oversize knits.

There was nude, and a touch of green, but the color that dominated here was brown. Brown? “I worked with a chocolate color,” said Trussardi. “It was as if the woman had jumped inside a chocolate swimming pool, from her shoes to her bag.” Less minimal, that.

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