Kaelen – Pre Spring/Summer 2016 Ready-To-Wear

After Fall’s slightly convoluted outing of prints, shapes, and Twin Peaks, it came as welcome news that Kaelen Haworth had decided not to mire herself “in the whole inspiration bog,” as she put it, and instead opted to work on a lineup of more understated wardrobe staples with a few artful flourishes.

The foundation of Resort was a bonded combo of black double-crepe with an underside of sea-foam silk charmeuse. Substantial but luxe, Haworth spun it into skirts, a peplumed jacket, and wide-leg trousers with a thick cuff that exposed the pastel underside to nice effect. “I wanted the collection to unfold and be more about the fabrications and technique,” the designer offered at a showroom preview. Among the most notable pieces were groupings in pleats, including a skirt that combined sunburst pleats with the famously fabric-consuming Fortuny style. The effect was feminine, but not insistently so, and right in step with the Kaelen vernacular. Still, some of the biggest news here was an expanded knitwear lineup (Haworth was recently announced as one of the finalists for this year’s Woolmark Prize): Her plaited, nubby, and body-con options were all winners.