As a seasoned designer and girl-about-town, Charlotte Ronson has built up a fan base of celebrities, bloggers, and models that makes for buzzy Lincoln Center presentations. But she also appeals to a more humble market via her long-standing partnership with JC Penney. Straddling both worlds can be tricky, but in Ronson’s case it’s helped her to develop the labels independently. Designing for JC Penney “puts a lot in perspective, being able to do really great products at an affordable price,” she said. “The contemporary market is a lot smaller, and we’re producing everything in New York now. It makes it more expensive, so you really have to think about what you’re putting out there.”

For Fall, Ronson was inspired by nature balanced with clean, ’60s-inspired sportswear. Dark, moody florals and olive culottes fit the bill, but it was hard to suss out the thought process behind many of the looks. A ribbed khaki sweaterdress with matching tights would be difficult to pull off in real life, and a pair of sheer trousers had a strange fit. The collection did feel a little more grown-up, devoid of the Teva sandals and flower appliqués the designer has shown in the past. But aren’t playful prints and silhouettes Ronson’s special sauce? Her customers will snap up the glittering hunter green sequin dress and pastel coats, but otherwise they may feel a little let down.

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