There have been mountains of delphiniums shipped in to embellish the Dior tent and mountains of individuals clogging the Rue de Rivoli entrance, jostling for a glimpse of Rihanna. Inside, although? There was Raf Simons backstage, speaking about retaining issues easy and quiet: “It’s a relaxed one, and really comfortable—away from the overdone. I didn’t wish to embellish. So I used to be occupied with the South of France—rainbows and the straightforward issues. And there’s a little bit of Victoriana: one thing of that movie Picnic at Hanging Rock. With a slight sexual undertone of darkness.”

Simons can lay cheap declare to have been the one to begin each the present Victoriana-nightdress development and the intergalactic astronaut traits which might be operating by means of so many collections this season—he proposed each themes in his Spring 2015 ready-to-wear present. However a part of the accountability for helming a behemoth model like Christian Dior is filling shops with daywear for girls who like female issues reasonably than conceptual garments, and this season he attended to servicing it.

His answer was to pair scallop-edged handkerchief cotton clothes, little shorts, and bodices with black tailoring. The jackets—softened from the corseted New Look hourglass—skimmed the physique and broke into bands of micro pleats on the hem, a masculine-feminine merge suggesting the methods that went into the trains of Victorian and Edwardian attire. The sexual undertone? Not a lot within the garments as on the necks, which had been sure with tight scarves and chokers, every carrying a single jewel and dangling a metallic tag, a few of which learn 1947, the date of Dior’s revolutionary New Look assortment. By way of trend, although, there was nothing very disturbing or difficult in any of this. Intentionally so: In a season the place many collections have apparently uncared for to keep in mind that there may be heat climate in 2016, Dior is one place the place recent summer season choices will likely be discovered.