The cult of Comme is a sophisticated micro-society shadowed by layers of traces inside. Beneath apex-Comme—and what a really unimaginable assortment Rei Kawakubo confirmed this week—there may be the Comme des Garçons business assortment that by no means sees the sunshine of runway however that the consumers flock to postshow. Boy, the showroom was rammed immediately. Under, considerably beneath, there’s Comme Shirt (kinda my favourite when it comes to buy-to-wear), Comme Woman, and possibly a number of others hidden away within the Comme-citadel on Place Vendôme of which most individuals have most likely by no means heard. Comme des Comme—this assortment—inhabits a welcome candy spot between haute Comme and Woman. It’s the go-to uniform for Comme acolytes: These are the garments of the disciples.
At present’s assortment contained an fascinating mélange of the country and the historic, shot by way of with the white-and-navy overtones of seifuku (old-school Japanese college uniform lifted from French sailor fits), that appear so ingrained within the Comme unconscious. The cut-away angle beneath the 2 buttons on a nylon/polyester jacket (CdGCdG is a grasp of mustering richness in synthetics) spoke loudly of early–19th century navy tailoring—have a look at portraits of Lord Nelson. The tough, gently pleated linen shift and smock clothes whispered of a Thomas Hardy-ish, bucolic imaginative and prescient of the tenant farmer’s spouse. There have been even pantaloons, worn over the same old Repetto uwabaki. This was a fastidiously and poignantly rendered articulation of the ascetic aesthetic of Comme: gradual vogue for deep thinkers. Dreamy.