MICHAEL VAN DER HAM AUTUMN/WINTER 2015-16 READY-TO-WEAR LONDON

COLLAGE confections are what Michael van der Ham does. It’s a small bracket to work within but one which he manages to do each season – gently reworking them as he goes and expanding his output. And today he’d refined this signature more than we’ve seen before through sparse and gentle use of montaged brocade (on purple and ink gowns boasting bodices and peplums), as well as the introduction of knitwear and skirts as opposed to just his dose of pretty dresses.

This then gave the collection extended wardrobe appeal and showed that this is a designer who has ideas that can branch out beyond that of just patchwork frocks: a jumper with delicate folds of brocade, for example, to mimic those that entwined the bust and bodice of a dress; supremely shaped coats with voluminous sleeves, a swatch of molten material snaking around a waist or down the front; shirts that slipped off shoulders and had naïve charm about them.

It was touch-me-tactile, elegant and delicate. But the takeaway was that there was more than just what we know him for here. But also more of just what we like.