Proenza Schouler – Pre Spring/Summer 2016 Ready-To-Wear
A trip to Cuba was the starting point for Lazaro Hernandez and Jack McCollough’s likable Resort outing. Hernandez has extended family in the country that he’d never met, but while it sounds like the designers’ time there was a moving experience, it rubbed off on the clothes in essentially subtle ways. You wouldn’t have guessed the collection’s island origins if it wasn’t for the tropical print, but even it had a distinctly urban flavor thanks to the spongy satin it appeared on and such zippy finishes as tacked seams that exposed thin slices of skin and car wash hems that showed off a bit more.
Other parts of the lineup were extensions of their Fall show. The grommets that decorated sheer chiffon dresses last season (seen recently on Kim Kardashian West at the CFDAs) reappeared on easier-to-wear cotton pieces, not to mention a range of leather bags. Fall’s tweeds, meanwhile, came in a lighter weight. A sleeveless red tweed dress with a handkerchief hem and a gentle ruffle down the front (another understated nod to Cuba) was one of the best pieces, as elegant as it was effortless. Also tapping into that vibe were a pair of crocheted dresses in a poppy yellow tank style and an apple green option with long bell sleeves. The knit tunic and skirt in deep brown and black mélange added the quality of versatility to the equation, making it virtually impossible to resist.