Earlier this summer, Tanya Taylor was announced as one of this year’s CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund finalists. With all eyes on the emerging designer this season, “there’s definitely a pressure to refine your point of view,” she said backstage before her show. But worries aside, Taylor has maintained incredible poise and a clear vision from the get-go, and she continued to articulate her punchy, polished aesthetic for Spring. Since launching her namesake line two years ago, Taylor has become known for her bold use of print and color. This time around, “I got really into pinwheels and the idea of how they’re in constant rotation and movement,” she said. That concept gave rise to the graphic patterns found on cool cutout-shoulder frocks, silk slips, and even raincoats (a functional first for Taylor). “I love the idea of taking weather seriously but bringing personality to rain gear,” she said.

Taylor also translated her pinwheel inspiration into texture with whirling chenille embroideries, which added energy to micro-knit wrap skirts and the finale series of otherwise basic black looks. Speaking of energy, Taylor wielded vibrant hues powerfully. “I was really excited about color, but more about the temperature and intensity of the color,” she said. Pops of hot orange appeared throughout the lineup, most notably in the form of a lambskin biker jacket. They were also there on statement-making accessories, including structured Plexiglas purses and patent sandals created in collaboration with fellow Fashion Fund nominee Paul Andrew.

While Taylor displayed her signature ladylike edge here, she still kept the tightly edited collection (clocking in at 24 looks—one below the CFDA’s recommended 25) very wearable. If anything, she may have played things a bit too safe. But that may have been a smart move ultimately. After all, it seems that “retail-friendly” is the new “directional” when it comes to winning fashion prizes these days—and Taylor’s definitely got her eye on the prize.