Christopher Shannon Spring/Summer 2016 Menswear
“That thong th-th-th thong.” By closing his show with Sisqó, Christopher Shannon surely scooped most unlikely tune of the season—on day one!—plus simultaneously semaphored his increasingly refined brand of slyly knowing subversion. The whistles, the foam that was mashed into the models’ hair, plus the occasional super-trash bikini top looped like a trophy around their necks all spoke of boorish package holiday hedonism: leering lads on tour hammered on 1 euro shots. Beneath that shtick, though, it was the lads who came packaged for leering at. Shannon’s shirts were sheer; tracksuits and bombers came sliced apart and not altogether taped up again or featured vertical full-length zippers for every-which-way undoing. A white foam jacket had been vigorously rent asunder.
There was a new-season section of signature Shannon pub-essentials knitwear, which this time came fine gauged and featured lighters: The Clipper was “Needy”; the corner-shop disposable was “Damaged”; while the Zippo got “Shannon” in honor of his latest commercial collaboration. (Press release quote from the designer: “I’ve long held an affinity for Zippo lighters since seeing my brother own one.”) Another collaboration, this one with Cat Footwear, has birthed an excellently remixed 16-year-old sports-utility sandal. This was podium-ready hedonist sportswear.