TRACY REESE AUTUMN/WINTER 2015-16 READY-TO-WEAR NEW YORK
“Urban warrior.” It’s a concept almost any girl could get behind, not least a New Yorker. Who doesn’t need a little stomp in her step to survive the morning commute? “I always walk to work with my headphones and sunglasses on, and you’re in your own world thinking about what you need to do that day. You need to be prepared,” said Tracy Reese backstage after her show. Clothes aside, it was sound advice: Embrace the day’s challenges and conquer them head-on.
To translate that sense of power into her clothes, Reese focused on rich textures like patent leather, lots of faux fur, and marled knits (knitwear is one of Reese’s strongest categories right now) that would make an instant statement. This fall there are still plenty of ponchos, and Reese’s looked great with fluffy fringe and tonal embroideries.
More stand-out were the pieces that incorporated some kind of faux fur, like the black-and-white getup that opened the show, and a moto-jacket-fur hybrid later on. “I didn’t want it to be precious,” Reese said. These fur pieces were better suited to a night out with friends than an opera house, and that’s what women are looking for these days.
Reese is best known for her prints, and there was no shortage of them here. She played with African motifs with mixed results. They looked strong on statement coats and a few interesting head-to-toe knit ensembles, but on body-con dresses it was a little been there, done that. Another key influence was—you guessed it—the ’70s. “I love the ’70s influence, but I didn’t want it to feel retro,” Reese said. “We really tried to think about how you might integrate a cool ’70s-feeling piece into a modern wardrobe.” Touches of suede were a subtle nod to the decade, while jackets and dresses with sharp collars and sporty zippers were a bit more literal.
Overall, there was a lot going on, especially if you were at the show to experience the fog machines and DJ set. But mixing and matching is Reese’s thing, and there were some inventive new ideas to appreciate here.