CLOVER CANYON AUTUMN/WINTER 2015-16 READY-TO-WEAR NEW YORK Fall felt a little moodier for Clover Canyon. Designer Rozae Nichols was looking at the Brontë sisters, Art Nouveau prints, Edwardians, and just a hint of the Haight. Where her prints often lean acid-hued, explosive, and unchecked, here they swirled smokily against dark backdrops. Tapestry was a major influence ...
PROENZA SCHOULER AUTUMN/WINTER 2015-16 READY-TO-WEAR THERE was a tightening up of ideas this evening at Proenza Schouler as Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez presented a hit autumn collection. Their imaginations were stirred by the work of Helen Frankenthaler, the American expressionist painter, and conceptual artist, Robert Morris. The slicing of hemlines was a direct homage ...
RALPH LAUREN AUTUMN/WINTER 2015-16 READY-TO-WEAR NEW YORK When the talk of New York fashion week isn’t revolving around the brutal weather front, then it’s chat about newest latest happenings. This week, that’s only been about one thing: the Polo Bar restaurant – Ralph Lauren’s latest opening, a cozy, dimly lit den serving the best steak in ...
J.MENDEL AUTUMN/WINTER 2015-16 READY-TO-WEAR NEW YORK Free glamour. That's how Gilles Mendel described his Fall 2015 collection, inspired in part by late-1970s New York City nightlife. He also looked at Richard Avedon's portraits of Anjelica Huston from earlier in that decade, because, "every night owl needs a day dress." Mendel, like many designers feeling the '70s ...
CALVIN KLEIN COLLECTION AUTUMN/WINTER 2015-16 READY-TO-WEAR NEW YORK As the New York collections come to a close, with Calvin Klein the penultimate show on the schedule, trends are emerging and two of them, could be ticked off here: ponyskin and Lurex. Francisco Costa opened his show this afternoon with a glossy black calf hair coat, which was ...
A.L.C. AUTUMN/WINTER 2015-16 READY-TO-WEAR NEW YORK Andrea Lieberman knows what girls want. Fall found the A.L.C. designer drawing on a bicoastal notion of the season (she's L.A.-based) with plenty of quietly nostalgic touches from two decades that are presently rattling around the Zeitgeist: the '70s and the '90s. The former came through with pleasant subtlety; Lieberman's ...
MARC JACOBS AUTUMN/WINTER 2015-16 READY-TO-WEAR NEW YORK Show goers looking for clues upon entering Marc Jacobs’s venue this evening, the Park Avenue Armory, were struck but the dense red of the designer’s theatrical set. At the back, it featured an opulent backdrop of Diana Vreeland’s Billy Baldwin-decorated apartment; the plush welcoming sofa, printed scattered cushions, draped ...
MARIOS SCHWAB AUTUMN/WINTER 2015-16 READY-TO-WEAR LONDON EACH Fashion Week there’s a similar qualm – that the schedule is a little too on the tightly-packed side. The answer, then, is to get in there before everyone else and go your own way – which is just what Marios Schwab did this season, hosting a salon-style presentation a ...
EUDON CHOI AUTUMN/WINTER 2015-16 READY-TO-WEAR LONDON IF there's one thing Eudon Choi has always been very good at, it's outerwear: it's what he's built his label on since he launched it back in 2009 - whether he realises it or not. And perhaps sometimes he hasn't - last season, quite rightly for the spring/summer season, he ...
FELDER FELDER AUTUMN/WINTER 2015-16 READY-TO-WEAR LONDON In late-1960s West Berlin, Uschi Obermaier was a profoundly hot, first-wave radical-feminist commune member and enthusiastic proponent of free love who devoured rock-and-roll alpha males like a big-game huntress with unlimited ammunition. As Daniela Felder, one half of the Felder Felder sibling design team, said after this Obermaier-homage show: "Half ...
DAKS AUTUMN/WINTER 2015-16 READY-TO-WEAR LONDON Oh, Daks. If you are British, male, and know clothes, this brand really means something: It's deep. That check! Trousers without suspenders! The incredible building on Piccadilly! Great sportswear and ready-to-wear tailoring! But that was then and this is now. Globalized 21st-century Daks is massive in Korea and designed by Filippo Scuffi. ...
JEAN-PIERRE BRAGANZA AUTUMN/WINTER 2015-16 READY-TO-WEAR LONDON Note to J-P: The problem with giving us such a vim-filled and thematically focused press release—including the excellent line "hail the awesome symmetry and terrifying beauty of fighter jets"—plus a pre-model preamble that featured air-raid sirens and the shifting glare of spotlights, is that it rather primes the audience to ...
SASS & BIDE AUTUMN/WINTER 2015-16 READY-TO-WEAR LONDON Today's Sass & Bide show marked the debut outing for the label's new creative director, Anthony Cuthbertson. A former consultant for Victoria Beckham and Mulberry, Cuthbertson made his second order of business in taking the Sass & Bide helm elevating the clothes, a priority keenly felt in this collection's ...
KAROLYN PHO FALL/WINTER 2015 (CAPSULE) NEW YORK WOMEN KAROLYN PHO’S EPONYMOUS COLLECTION ACCOMPLISHES THE DELICATE BALANCE BETWEEN AN ARTFUL, AVANT-GARDE IDEAL WITH THE EASE OF CLASSIC AMERICAN DESIGN. COMMITTED TO TEXTILE INNOVATION AND EXPERIMENTATION WHILE STILL APPEALING TO THE UNDERSTATED MINIMALIST CUSTOMER, PHO DRAWS UPON BOTH HER MERCHANDISING AND STYLING EXPERTISE. GRADUATING FROM CALIFORNIA STATE UNIVERSITY WITH ...
MIPACHA FALL/WINTER 2014 (CAPSULE) NEW YORK WOMEN “MY SHOES, OUR WORLD” MIPACHA was founded in Cuzco, the heart of Peru. We provide original high quality footwear, handmade by local Peruvians and inspired by the stunning landscapes and vibrant culture of Peru. Each pair of MIPACHA shoes tell its own story through the color and symbolic motifs of ...
MUUBAA SPRING/SUMME 2015 (CAPSULE) WOMEN NEW YORK Muubaa redefines what is possible with leather, challenging the notion that leather can only ever look good as a biker jacket (though we do love a great biker jacket). Whether worn as a statement or layered into an overall style, our pieces bring a refined edge and ...
PAOLA HERNANDEZ SPRING/SUMMER 2015 (CAPSULE) NEW YORK WOMEN Paola Hernández launched her label in 2006 after studying philosophy in Mexico City and fashion at Saint Martin’s in London and shoe design at ARS Sutoria in Milan. “Fashion is a manifestation of collective consciousness,” says Paola, “my creative process starts with a question of how to understand ...
RACHEL ANTONOFF SPRING/SUMMER 2015 (CAPSULE) NEW YORK WOMEN Death never looked so darling. With her Spring collection, Rachel Antonoff charted the story of a girl named Tuesday, who, upon her demise, goes to a dreamy afterworld called Eveready ("like Neverland," the designer explained). Despite the macabre subject matter, Antonoff's vision of the afterlife was an ...
REIKE NEN SPRING/SUMMER 2015 (CAPSULE) NEW YORK WOMEN ‘Reike Nen’ was formed in January 2010 in Seoul by Rei Yoon Hong mi, especially focused on shoes and others. Reike Nen brought both classic and elegant aspects from the past to create their own designs with a contemporary vision. In doing so, the aim is create a new ...
SAMANTHA PLEET SPRING/SUMMER 2015 (CAPSULE) NEW YORK WOMEN New York based Samantha Pleet designs dream clothes and shoes, and is known for her signature twisted tailoring and ethereal prints. The Pratt Institute alumn along with Patrick Pleet who studied architecture at UPenn, have established a cult following with everyday dreamers and today’s icons. The elegant, otherworldly ...
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